Tuckpointing and Masonry Contractors: Finding the Best Professionals in Chicago for Summer 2023

Introduction: As the summer of 2023 approaches, homeowners and property managers are gearing up for necessary maintenance and repair work. Tuckpointing, a crucial process for maintaining masonry structures in Chicago, requires skilled professionals. In this blog post, we will explore the significance of tuckpointing, the role of masonry contractors, and provide valuable tips on finding the best contractors for your project.

  1. Understanding Tuckpointing: Tuckpointing is a specialized technique used to repair deteriorating mortar joints in masonry structures. Over time, mortar can crack, crumble, or become damaged due to weathering, age, or structural shifts. Tuckpointing involves the careful removal of damaged mortar and the replacement with fresh mortar, enhancing both the structural integrity and aesthetic appeal of the masonry. Hiring a skilled masonry contractor ensures that tuckpointing is executed effectively, preserving the longevity and appearance of your property.
  2. The Importance of Masonry Contractors: Masonry contractors in Chicago play a vital role in maintaining and restoring masonry structures. These professionals possess the necessary skills, knowledge, and experience to handle tuckpointing projects with precision. They understand the specific requirements of different types of masonry, such as brick, stone, or concrete, and can identify the underlying issues causing mortar deterioration. A reputable contractor will assess the condition of the masonry, offer expert advice, and provide a comprehensive plan to restore and protect your property.
  3. Tips for Finding the Best Masonry Contractors:

a. Research and Referrals: Start by conducting thorough research online, looking for masonry contractors with positive reviews and testimonials. Seek recommendations from friends, family, or neighbors who have recently had masonry work done.

b. Experience and Expertise: Look for contractors with extensive experience in tuckpointing and masonry restoration. Ensure they are licensed, insured, and knowledgeable about local building codes and regulations.

c. Portfolio and References: Ask for a portfolio of their previous work to assess the quality and craftsmanship. Request references and contact them to gauge client satisfaction and the contractor’s reliability.

d. Written Estimates: Obtain written estimates from multiple contractors, detailing the scope of work, materials, timeline, and cost. Compare these estimates to make an informed decision.

e. Communication and Professionalism: A reputable contractor should communicate clearly, be responsive to your queries, and maintain professionalism throughout the project.

f. Contracts and Warranties: Before finalizing an agreement, ensure that all terms, warranties, and guarantees are documented in a written contract to protect both parties.

Conclusion: Tuckpointing is a crucial maintenance task for masonry structures, and hiring the right contractor is essential for a successful project. By understanding the significance of tuckpointing, recognizing the role of masonry contractors, and following these tips, you can find the best professionals to ensure your property is restored to its former glory for summer 2023 and beyond.

Provided by https://mtmasonrychicago.com/

Out with the Old and In with the New: How to Replace Broken Vinyl Siding

Accidents happen – and they can happen to your vinyl siding. It only takes one newly-licensed driver getting too close to the house, a solid home-run hit that didn’t quite make it into the field, or a hit from a wild windstorm to ruin your vinyl siding. Unless you were hit by a tornado, hurricane or earthquake, you don’t need to re-side your entire house. Just replace the piece or pieces of vinyl siding that are damaged.

If you know how to use a hammer and nail, you can learn how to replace a broken piece of vinyl siding using simple tools. Your biggest challenge will be to not break or damage other pieces of siding in the process. It’s not as easy as gluing on a piece of vinyl siding to cover a crack, but by using a prybar and an inexpensive tool called a “zip tool” it’s easy enough for a beginner.

A zip tool is made specifically for removing and installing vinyl siding. Any hardware or lumber store that sells vinyl siding will likely sell zip tools. It’s an easy-to-use lightweight hand tool made up of a handle and a flat square hook. You’re going to use the zip tool to unlock the good vinyl siding piece from the bad vinyl siding piece.

First, look at the overlapping vinyl pieces and find the edge where a good piece of siding overlaps the top of the broken piece of siding. Put the zip tool, hook side up, between the edges. Use the tool to carefully lift the bottom of the top piece of siding to uncover the top of the broken piece. Don’t pry too hard or you might break the vinyl. Slide the tool along the interlocking edges and unlock the two pieces.

Once the edges are loosened from each other, carefully lift up the top piece to expose the J-channel. A “J-channel” is a long thin piece of vinyl (or metal) with holes in it. Your broken piece of vinyl will be nailed into the wall through the J-channel. Don’t bend the top piece of vinyl too far or it will break and you’ll have more work to do. You can now see where your broken piece of vinyl siding is nailed in through the J-channel on the wall.

Your next objective is to take the nails out of the J-channel and the wall so you can remove the broken piece of vinyl. You will not be able to fit a hammer between the two pieces of vinyl to get the nails out, so use the flat end of a pry bar. If the prybar is going to hit nearby pieces of healthy siding, put a piece of wood underneath the prybar to protect the siding.

Once the nails are out, remove the damaged piece of vinyl siding. You might have to jiggle it or pull it up or down to loosen it. You can then nail on the new piece of siding. Do not use the same holes as the old one, and make sure you drive the nails in straight and not at an angle. You will likely have to use the pry bar to hammer in the nails as well. You do this by hammering on the neck of the prybar holding the nail.

Once the replacement piece is nailed in, use the zip tool to refasten the two pieces of vinyl siding. Put the zip tool inside the edging again and pull the old strip out and over the edge of the new strip. Once you pull the edging out and over, press your hand against the zip tool to lock the vinyl edges into place. Keep sliding the tool along the edging repeating the process until it’s all locked into place.

Your siding should be as good as new. Your teenage driver will eventually stop hitting the house, and the home-run hitter will eventually grow up and make the major leagues – but you can’t stop mother nature from damaging your vinyl siding. Keep some extra pieces of siding around, and keep your prybar and zip tool handy. You never know what’s going to fly your way, but you can be sure that you’ll be able to repair the aftermath of the collision.

Repair Your Aluminum Siding Damage with a Replacement Piece

Unless you live in the middle of a desert, your aluminum-sided house is not immune to damage. (Even if you live in a desert your home would not be immune to rolling cacti and sandstorms.) Storms knock poles and gutters down, trees fall over, and rolling objects roll on a course to collision. As durable as aluminum siding is, there may be a time when a piece of siding has to be replaced. A strong arm, a good knife and some roofing cement can help you do the job.

Look at the damage and your cutting skills and ask yourself if it will be easier to replace a whole piece, or to cut off just the damaged area. Replacing the whole piece will leave a seamless finish compared to replacing a part of a whole piece of siding.

If you decide to replace a whole piece, start with cutting the damaged piece of siding lengthwise, horizontally, removing the bottom and leaving the top. The top part will be used to glue the replacement on. If your aluminum siding is the type that simulates a double row of siding, start your slicing about one inch over the center line. If you want to cut out just the section that is damaged, start with vertical cuts, approximately 12 inches from the outer side edges of the piece of siding. Then slice horizontally between cuts.

After you cut the damaged siding, you’re going to cut your new piece of siding. First, make sure that the new replacement piece of siding extends three inches beyond the ends of the damaged siding. If you’re cutting out a smaller section, make sure the new piece extends six inches. Take that piece of siding and cut off the upper edge that has slots in it.

Now it’s time for the sticky part. Get some roofing cement or adhesive caulking compound and spread a good gooey amount over the piece of cut siding that is still on the house, and spread it on the ends of the siding panel that is on the house next to the spot where the replacement piece will be put on. Take your new siding piece, with the slots cut off, align it and press it on to the cement or caulk. Make sure the new replacement siding has the top cut edge snug behind the lower edge of the overlapping siding that hangs over it. The lower edge of the new piece of aluminum siding should be over the top edge of the piece below it. Press down on the siding to get the adhesive to spread and stick. The cement will be enough to secure the new siding, but you can tighten things up by adding some blind rivets – which work just like screws.

Aluminum siding is thin enough to allow repairs to appear inconspicuous. Replacing a piece of aluminum siding is often easier than trying to bust out some dents and grooves. If you can cut through thin metal, it’s a job you can do yourself. Whether it’s a rolling cactus or a hailing rain storm that threatens your siding, you’ll be able to keep your house standing tall and looking damage-free with a quick replacement piece that’s ready to take on another falling tree.

The Building Blocks of Beginning Porch Planning – II

Your porch roof should be chosen primarily for protection, and then for aesthetic appeal. You may need a strong roof to support winter’s continuously falling snow, or perhaps a light canopy is all you need to keep the sun from burning your skin. Your ceiling choice must of course be compatible with the roof, and it should also become an attractive extension of the walls and home.

Although weather is a primary consideration when planning a porch wall or enclosure, the aesthetic appeal of your walls will have a far greater impact on daily living than the aesthetics of the roof over your head. Keep in mind that porch “walls” can be windows, screens, glass blocks, drapes, blinds, or a host of other materials. Porch “walls” can be movable or permanent, decorative or protective. Likewise, the columns you choose should complement your chosen flooring and wall material – and ideally your decor.

The lifestyle your porch supports will determine how you approach each building block of the porch planning process. Review the potential for safety and danger in every building block choice your consider. Your decisions will change over the years, but it’s a lot easier to change your furniture and décor than it is to change your ceramic or stone floor. Make sure you consider the long-term effects of each decision.

Planning the perfect porch is a fun project that must not be done hastily. Great thought must be given to weather, safety, design, practicality, growth and changes, lifestyles, and of course personal preferences. A sturdy porch built to your well-thought out expectations one building block at a time will give your generations a place to always have good food, good friends, and a welcoming place to always enjoy home. Provided by Hardwood Floor Installation Arlington Heights IL

The Building Blocks of Beginning Porch Planning

North, South, East or West – all over the country, porches convey peace, family and friendship. Country folks might use their wide wrap-around porch to enjoy the tranquility of rolling hills, blue mountains, and a pitcher of ice-cold sweet tea. On the ocean front, a sea-side porch hosts a gathering of giggly friends enjoying Chardonnay in the fresh salty air, while a water-colored sunset fades into the ocean’s horizon.

Miles and miles away, inner city porches are compacted together with folks leaning on paint-worn posts discussing the latest news and keeping a watchful eye on their kids running neighbor to neighbor and porch to porch as toys get strewn about. As the night falls far off into the distance, a penthouse porch turns into a midnight dance floor for two, where a full moon hovers over the cascade of glittering city lights below.

Good times don’t always require planning, but planning for a perfect porch will give you assurance that good times can always be had. To plan a perfect porch, start with examining each building block of the porch planning process. The building blocks of porch structure are floors, walls, ceilings, columns, and roofing. The building blocks of a porch interior are floor coverings, wall coverings, furniture, lighting, electrical outlets and plumbing. The final tier of porch planning consists of the final touches – plants, vases, paintings, artifacts – all those special touches that make a porch uniquely yours.

But before your inner interior designer personality surfaces, consider the practical. Picture all possible uses for your porch that could happen over the next 20 years. Brainstorm potential uses with all family members. Older family members might envision of place of solitude and quiet gatherings, others might envision a place for crafts, gardening and games. Young adults might be thinking about entertaining friends, and young children might look forward to an outdoor playroom.

After the life of your porch has been defined, you can start thinking about floors and walls. Wood floors are classic, but a porch floor can be made of stone, ceramic, brick and other assorted floor covering alternatives. Or it can simply be covered with an outdoor carpet. But your porch floor covering must fit your lifestyle, and must be able to tolerate the elements of the outdoors.

Stop Tugging Your Sticky Door and Tighten It Instead

Doors work hard for us. They lead us into and out of rooms, they keep belongings safe from toddlers, pets and unwanted visitors, and they sound out our anger with a firm slam. Doors help muffle the sound of disturbing noises, give us privacy for surprise planning, and close to give us a moment’s peace on a moment’s notice. But all this hard work can take its toll on hinged doors. Eventually, a door will start sticking when we need to rush into the bathroom, won’t slam when we’re throwing a tantrum, or won’t close without a second tug. If your doors are sticking and squeaking, and you’re tired of tugging and pulling every time you enter or leave a room, it’s time to take a look at your door frames and hinges.

Stand on the side of the troublesome door where you can see the hinges. Look at the top and bottom corners of the door that are on the side of the doorknob as you are opening and closing the door. If you see either of the corners rub against the frame, your sticky door might be caused by a few loose screws.

Open the door all the way to access the screws, and tighten them with a screwdriver that has a tip the same length of the screw. A screwdriver that is too small or too wide can further damage the screws. Sometimes just tightening the screws a little bit can make a difference in your door’s alignment, so test your door after a few small turns.

If the slots of your screws have some dried up paint covering the screw slot, just dip a cotton swab into some paint thinner and dab it on. Let the paint thinner soak in for about ten minutes, then scrape it out with a paperclip or the tip of your screwdriver, then try tightening the screws.

If your screws keep turning and don’t tighten, the screw holes have probably enlarged from all the movement. You can take the old screws out and replace them with screws of a larger diameter to cure the problem. Unfortunately, some hinges might not let you take in larger screws, and you’ll have to take the door down.

Test your door after you’ve adjusted the screws and see if the corners are aligned with the frame. Make sure the top and bottom corners aren’t touching the frame. Open and close the door to test it. If it moves free and clear, your problem is solved. If you can’t fit in screws that have a larger diameter, or the door still does not open and close properly, you’ll have to take down the door to do some more work and inspect it to see if there’s other structural damage causing the door to stick.

Hopefully, a few twists of a screwdriver is all it will take to get your door swinging with ease, and then you can get back to enjoying your privacy and get a good night’s sleep behind your easy-to-close door.

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Mapping and Glazing Skylights for Solar Heating

If you’re hoping to gain the benefit of solar heating from your skylight, keep in mind that the earth’s orientation and the location of your home will play a big part in installation and heating efficiency. Skylights are a good source of supplemental heat, especially in moderate or warm climates. However, homes in cold northern climates like Des Plaines and Palatine Illinois that struggle to keep warm in the winter won’t receive the same heating benefits, but they can still be installed for maximum solar efficiency according to Peter.

Installing a skylight requires cutting a hole in the roof. In the coldest seasons, a northern winter home with a skylight will experience more energy loss than heat gain from the skylight. This energy loss can be offset with insulation and energy-efficient glazing, but the added passive heat from a traditional skylight won’t reduce your winter bills if you live in ski country. Any window will add energy loss, but since skylights add dramatic benefits to your home, this alone should not be a consideration to avoid installing a skylight. Installing your northern home’s skylight at an angle to provide the most heat will build on its heating efficiency.

If you live in a moderate or warm area in the northern hemisphere, skylights for solar heating can certainly help your winter heating bill but they must be aligned to transfer the heat based on the earth’s seasonal positioning. According to Window Repair To get the most heat out of a winter sun, a skylight should be installed oriented south, or within twenty degrees east or west of true south. It must also be tilted toward the south, traditionally at an angle of the earth’s latitude plus fifteen degrees. Most roofs are steep enough to accommodate these angles, but if you have a flat or customized roof, prepare yourself for some extra installation requirements if you want maximum heat gain from a winter sun.

The glaze on your skylight has significant influence on your home’s intake of solar heating. A clear glaze maximizes light and heat, but a translucent glaze reduces direct heat from the sun. However, a clear glaze also brings in a stronger glare than a translucent glaze. Any tinted glaze will significantly cut down on light and solar heat and is not recommended if you’re looking to partner with the sun to keep your winter thermostat down. Skylights can easily accommodate shades to cut down on summer heat.

Skylights for solar heating have many special requirements that aren’t considerations for decorative installations. However, positioning and glazing your decorative skylight for passive solar heating will maximize your skylight’s heating efficiency.

Weatherstripping that Works through Rough Winters and Scorching Summers

Weatherizing your windows with weatherstripping is always a cost-effective way to protect your home against energy loss. If your windows are attacked by the extremes of blustering snow, howling winds or sweltering summers, it’s even more important for you to invest in a strong weatherstripping material to protect your home and control your energy bills.

Window weatherstripping choices have grown in selection and sophistication along with the increase in energy costs and environmental concerns. It would be easy to linger at a store aisle full of weatherstripping choices for hours just reading all the packages comparing installation methods, material content and protection values. Hours could also be spent staring at rolls and pieces of aluminum, steel, and vinyl, wondering which are right for you. Your weatherstripping choice will depend on the weather your window is exposed to, the design and structure of your window, how often the window is used, the skill it takes to install, the cost, and your value on window aesthetics.

Metal weatherstripping is the most durable and protective weatherstripping on the market today. Although its price range is higher than vinyl and the easy-on easy-off foam and felt tapes – it is generally not exorbitantly priced unless you are seeking special metals. For older homes adorned for a strict period feel of the past, metal weatherstripping is often recommended for its discrete appearance. If you need the protection of metal, but can’t afford the price, your next best investment would to buy weatherstripping that combines vinyl and metal weatherstripping materials.

Metal weatherstripping, like all other weatherstripping materials, comes in a variety of forms and materials. You can buy metal weatherstripping in bronze, brass, copper, aluminum or stainless steel, in pre-measured strips, or from a roll cut to your specifications. Metal channel stripping is the sturdiest type of weatherstripping, and a long-lasting choice for frequently used windows.

A metal “tension seal” or “spring metal seal” is a v-shaped metal strip used for weatherstripping that is nailed onto window channels. The v-shaped strip is formed with two same-sized metal pieces attached at an angle lengthwise, leaving a v-shaped space between the two joined strips. The window will close down and compress the space to create a seal. The seal is very efficient, but some tend to create a little bit of resistance when opening a window. These metal strips are installed so they are not visible, and therefore won’t interfere with any stringent design schemes. Although they do require some carpentry skills – you must be able to cut the metal with precision, deal with corners, and nail the metal in – you can find single self-sticking spring metal seals.

Although metal weatherstripping is the best performing weatherstripping material for windows, it is not created to be used on every type of window. You will find that some windows may take metal channel stripping on the sides, but will require a vinyl, foam or gasket strip under the sash. A metal tension strip can be installed on the bottom of an upper sash belonging to a double hung window, but a stationary top sash in a single hung window might require vinyl rubber gasket weatherstripping on the sash, and metal tension strips in the side channels. Either way, installing metal weatherstripping wherever you can greatly increases your energy savings.

If you’re looking for a durable window weatherstripping to provide year-round protection in a tough climate, take a closer look at making an investment in metal weatherstripping. Metal weatherstripping for windows won’t break its seal, and it will give you a break on your high energy costs.